This blog is to keep in touch with those I love during my twenty-seven month adventure in Paraguay. Welcome to the chronicles of my life as a gringa americana doing urban youth development in Sudamėrica.

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

I discovered coffee last week.


My room feels like me now. Finally, I can relax and I can imagine living here for longer. I knew I’d get to used to things, but it was more difficult than I anticipated because I had become so accustomed to my life at home whereas before I traveled last time, I was only home for a short while. I was used to being away. Of course nothing can compare to this…but anyway, the night is cool and my fan keeps my room at a pleasant temperature for sleeping. Today we walked so much throughout Villarica that I didn’t want to talk to anyone in that heat. Now I’m home, I have incense burning, my music is playing, and the atmosphere is very tranquillo. I recently rigged the lamp my family gave to me by removing the bulb from its exterior so I can actually use it for a reading lamp rather than an aesthetic glowing Virgin Mary as it was before. I never imagined this room feeling so nice. I didn’t bring incense with me from home because I was afraid they would think I was a witch for burning it because I had no idea of their beliefs. I know that sounds outlandish, but I had no idea and wanted to be careful. Anyway, it turns out that my host mom even had an incense burner for me to borrow. I splurged this weekend and bought lavender body wash and a dream catcher from Villarrica, the town I was visiting this week. The man tried to sell it to me for a gringo price since I’m obviously a foreigner, but too bad for him I pointed out the price tag and I paid him half his asking price. Damn this blonde hair. There’s no escaping it, I’ll always be the obvious extranjera, although everyone thinks I’m German. If your hair is lighter than jet-black, it´s blonde, so obviously I´m a bombshell.

Also, my mind is made up. If at all possible, I am going to have a horse during my term. Yes. I’ll get into that later.

This week was Long Field which is basically like a weeklong practicum. Three other people in my Urban Youth Development sector and I traveled to a city called Villarrica for a week’s worth of work. I stayed with an older woman who always had this look on her face that I first read as disappointment, and then I came to know that it was just her expression and she actually was not disapproving of everything I said. She was shocked at my age because of how young I look and that I did not dye my hair or wear makeup. At first I thought she thought I was awful for not putting forth more of an effort into my appearance, but she kept telling me how “linda” I was, so I don’t think she had bad intentions.


This week I met a boy whose mother lives in Spain with her other family and his father is dead. He stays with his Grandma but his drunk Uncle lives there and he´s abusive, especially when he drinks. When this happens, he runs away and stays with the lady I stayed with. This is how I met Aldo. He’s only ten years old and he seemed so much older. He noticed my plate and and all the food I left behind and said, “I can’t eat well, either.” It’s hard for him to eat much since he’s gone so long only eating very little, or that´s how Augustina, my host, explained it to me. I gave him some candy I had and he asked me if my teeth hurt. I didn’t understand the question at the time, but Augustina later explained that he cries because his teeth hurt so much. It turns out he didn’t even have a toothbrush. I thought about this documentary I had seen with this little boy who had owned nothing before and when he was given a toothbrush, he so proudly guarded it as his only possession. I couldn’t stop thinking of Aldo. I´ve worked with kids that have run the streets before, but I´ve never met one that was currently in the situation, not like this. I bought him a toothbrush the next day and found a package that came with two and he happily gave one to his little brother. I only saw him one other time before I left but he told me how he brushed his teeth and thanked me again. He wants to work with computers and we talked about Skype. I originally thought I would only be effective with working with girls, but after meeting Aldo, I had a strong desire to work with more ¨street kids.¨ (That´s how it´s labeled here). He doesn’t even have affection from anyone. Kids are so resilient and will always amaze me.

It rained so much in Villarica that the towns bordering the city were flooded and the town had no running water for five days. I still don't understand exactly what happened, but the water where I live now used to frequently shut off during the time I wanted to shower. At first I thought that's how it was going to be in Villarica, but it never came back on. Most everyone has wells, but Augustina had buckets of water brought to her from her brother. The first night I bathed with a bucket that was really quite fancy, she somehow had warmed up the water for me. The second night I ¨bucket bathed¨ she seemed so concerned since the water was cold, but I explained I'd rather be clean and what else could I do? She thought that response was hilarious.

It's kind of strange how things feel more comfortable now, because just as soon as I start to find my place here, we're moving on. We find out in a week where we are going to live for the next two years!

We swam in waterfalls. I somehow managed to climb up this tiny cliff that the Paraguayans could practically run up, and we jumped off. It wasn´t nearly as high as the cliff in North Carolina, but it was amazing. It felt so nice to be able to swim again. We tried to go to a different spring with more ¨waterfalls¨ but all the bridges had fallen from the previous rain fall. The signs leading up to the place read ¨Aventuras sin limites¨ but the fallen bridges proved the signs wrong, and our adventures were limited.



I made friends with carpinchos. They were like huge guniea pigs. I fed one a banana from my hand, and it was love.

I wish all mosquitoes and parasites were extinct. I don't know why they exist. It looks like I have chicken pox on my legs and I´m no fan of dengue. Just saying.

I finally washed my own clothes and cleaned my room. My host mom always insisted on washing my clothes and would clean my room, but I decided I needed to take control. It sounds like a small victory, but at first everything was so overwhelming and I felt uncertain with how to approach certain things, such as explaining the desire to do my own clothes, and finally, I feel more with it. I have graduated from middle school. It's the little things, you know.

Cold showers are actually refreshing in this heat. My language teacher said it's good for your circulation, I´m convinced she´s right. There are actually electric hot showers, but I only have the desire to use that on occasion. And mine is broken right now.

Stephen and I talked on the radio today! We had a sort of script written out and we were going to discuss some myths about Americans, but when it came time to talk, the DJ just asked us questions about Peace Corps and how we liked Paraguay. I was somehow able to keep up with him and understand most of what he said in his impossibly fast spanish. I felt like it was the micro machine guy or as if I were placing a bid at an auction. I had to do most of the talking because Stephen couldn´t understand him well and they let me introduce a song by my choice artist, Julieta Venegas. Very exciting, ha. I told them that I wasn´t used to speaking spanish because I usually speak Guarani at the house. That was pretty hilarious to everyone. Right after we were done at the station, I saw my host brother who had listened to us and he said I did well! You have to understand, compliments like that are not to be polite. Paraguayans are brutally honest so I was ready to laugh off any hate he had for me, but it was good. This is a culture where you can constantly make fun of your sister for being fat, and nobody corrects you. Or that´s what I´ve witnessed thus far, I should say. I should also mention that my host brother is twenty-six and has a one year old little boy, and that my sister is only ten.

We only have five weeks left and my host mom is trying to cease the moment since time has passed so quickly. For example, we ate fish on Sunday and I expressed the desire to go fishing. A few hours later, all of us, along with the long bamboo reed fishing poles that my host dad and little sister had to carry with their arms outside the windows because of their great length, were headed to the river. We found a cool place under a bridge and it was so incredibly peaceful. I felt sad to see trash polluting the river, but it was still beautiful inspite of this.

Yesterday we had a fancy party at my house. My host mom has been talking about making waffles for the other trainees for awhile, and yesterday morning she told me I had to invite everyone over that evening. Every single person came, along with one of our teachers, and my mom had it set up like we were in England. She put out her fancy dishes with coffee and tea, it was out of control chuchi. Chuchi=posh. There´s a teenager from Argentina that works in her store named Jose and he plays the accordian in a band with his family. I half jokingly asked if he had his accordian with him because I wanted to hear him play, and unbeknownst to me, he called his mom and had her bring it to him so he could play for me as a surprise. My entire training group was pretty shocked at the fanciness.


I had the brilliant idea for my mom to take a Spanish class and for her and my step dad to come visit me next year. That´s next on the list.

I hope everyone is well. I started writing this last week, I will update you next week when I found out my destiny! Mucho amor!!

5 comments:

  1. I love how you write! I can picture every word! Your story about the toothbrush made me so sad I wanted to drive to walgreens and send you twenty or so. Keep writing!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I loved reading your blog! It made me feel like I was there with you!! I fixed my skype so call me again soon!! Love and miss you!! mOm

    ReplyDelete
  3. I have so much love for little Aldo and your toothbrush story. It melted my heart. I am not surprised one bit that you did awesome on your radio tour! You rule Nat. totally rule. You are doing an amazing thing, doll. Don't forget it.

    xoxo
    C

    ReplyDelete
  4. Save the world one kid at a time....go BLONDE BOMBSHELL!!!! love ya nat! i havent gotten to read in a while but ill get caught up!

    ReplyDelete
  5. SO so much to comment on! I also was heart broken for little Aldo. I love reading what you've written. It's all so fascinating.

    Love love love

    ReplyDelete